We have just totally loved Eleuthera – it might not have been perfect blue skies everyday however this island has certainly won us over with its beautiful people, lovely anchorages and lots to do and see. The crazy thing is that we weren’t sure that we were going to come here but Mother Nature and the winds had the ultimate say in our travel plans.
We left Rock Sound harbor on a Easterly wind blowing 18-25 knots. We raises the mainsail inside the harbor and motored-sailed out to the protected Eleuthra sound. After pulling out the jib and shutting off the motor, we started sailing at 6.5 knots. We were in for a treat on a 20 NM sail on a beam reach (the best point of sail for sailboats).
Then one of the most delightful spectacles happened. We spotted a lone dolphin about 75 yards away and it change course and make a beeline for our boat. It swam a bit parallel to Fujiko then went forward and started to ride our bow waves. Claudia quickly went forward to take photos and videos. This was a huge lift to our spirits and clearly, the same for the dolphin as well.
Apparently bow-riding dolphins hardly have to exert themselves to move forward. As the ship advances, it creates a pressure wave at its bow – a bit like having a strong tail wind while you’re on a bicycle. While in that wave, dolphins have little more to do than just navigate to ensure they’re going in the right direction. There is little need to flap their tails for propulsion. Dolphins fitted with heart rate monitors helped scientists conclude that while bow-riding, the dolphin heart rates can be up to 70% slower than when they’re swimming in open waters.
Governor’s Harbour, the capital of Eleuthera and home to government offices, is the largest town on the island and one of the prettiest. We arrived early afternoon and took the dinghy into town. We walked around and noticed the town was busier than the usual Bahamian settlements that we’re used to. There were more cars and the locals seemed more fast paced. We walked towards the center of Governor’s Harbour, and found, tucked in a quiet corner of the bay, a church, and a bell, that has served as a beacon to the community for 125 years. Next to the church, I immediately spotted a basketball court. A father (Torad) and daughter was playing by the swing next to it. Since Torad had a basketball and he seemed bored, I challenged him to a one-to-one basketball game. He gladly accepted but was surely puzzled by this old man’s bold request until I made my first shot. He quickly took me seriously and proceeded to dominated the rest of the game. Exhausted after our game, we high-fived each other afterwards and just sat down on the court to catch our breath.
We passed by a dock on our way back and saw some locals selling lobsters. We counted our cash and we barely had enough to buy 2 small-sized lobsters. All we can think of on the dinghy ride back is how we’re going to have this delicious Lobster Fettuccine Alfredo for dinner.
On Eleuthera, everyone gathers together each Friday night near Cupid’s Cay in the town of Governor’s Harbour to enjoy the Fish Fry. This weekly event is hosted by the Governor’s Harbour Development Association, and it’s a friendly, welcoming celebration of local food, music, and people. The menu includes fried fish, of course, along with other island dishes like BBQ chicken, pork and peas and rice. A group of us gathered at the dock and made our way to the weekly Fish Fry. We congregating around an open air, beachfront food shack where meat is on the grill, fish is in the fryer and the smell of macaroni, peas and rice and conch fritters perfumes the air. We sat with Tao and Anodyne, and Borialis. By 8:00pm there were a couple of hundred people eating, drinking and generally making merry. The party builds until its time for the Limbo Dance competition, where tourists and locals (all lubricated with Rum Bubas) compete. Unfortunately we had to leave early to get back and prepare for tomorrow’s early morning departure. We said goodbye to our friends since most of us are going separate directions and this might be the last time we see them in the Bahamas.
Tomorrow we head for Glass Window, one of nature’s true wonders. It is one of the few places on earth where you can compare the rich blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean on one side of the road and the calm Bight of Eleuthera on the other side, separated by a strip of rock just 30 feet wide.
